The Heart of the Eurasian Corridor: Xinjiang

In late July, I received an invitation that would lead me to one of the most scrutinized regions in the world: the Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region in China. The 10-day trip, while intended to provide a glimpse into the region’s development, also raised my curiosity about its complex history, marked by both bloody insurgencies and international allegations of human rights abuses.

For years, Xinjiang has been at the center of global criticism. United Nations reports have highlighted concerns about the Chinese government’s policies, including the alleged systematic migration of Han Chinese into the region, restrictions on religious freedoms, and the internment of Uyghur Muslims in what China refers to as “re-education camps.” Critics argue that these camps are tools for forced assimilation, while Beijing insists they are “vocational education centers” designed to combat extremism after years of jihadist violence.

As I prepared for the journey, I wondered what I would encounter on the ground. What would the cities look like? How had daily life been affected by the global spotlight on this region? And what challenges were the local Uyghur population facing? Despite being a seasoned journalist, with experience in far-flung regions and diverse cultures, Xinjiang felt like an entirely different world.

The trip, organized in collaboration with Guangming Daily, one of China’s prominent media outlets, and Harici Medya, a growing name in Turkish media, promised an up-close look at a region whose realities have often been obscured by layers of political and social complexity. But navigating the flow of information in Xinjiang would be anything but straightforward.

The City Farthest from the Sea

Polish filmmaker Krzysztof Kieslowski once said, "It is worth investigating the unknown, if only because the very feeling of not knowing is a painful one." I first felt this pain while watching the modern high-rises and thoroughfare highways of Urumqi, one of the key junctions of the Belt and Road Initiative. Urumqi, which means "fine pasture" in a Mongolian dialect, still lives up to its name as Central Asia’s largest cultural, political, and commercial hub.

Urumqi, the largest city in western China, is in the Guinness World Records as the "city farthest from any ocean in the world," sitting approximately 2,500 kilometres from the nearest coastline. Despite this, it hosts a massive land port.

Designated as the "centre point of Asia" by local geographers in 1992, Urumqi is on a determined path to becoming one of the world’s major centres, driven by the Belt and Road Initiative.

43° 40’ 52”N 87° 19’ 52” E – The Heart of Asia (亚洲之心) – Xinjiang (新疆), China

A Familiar Voice in the Streets

Xinjiang, China's largest province by area, is roughly twice the size of Turkey. Over 10 days, we travelled over 10,000 kilometres across Urumqi, Kuqa, the Ili Kazakh Autonomous Prefecture, and Kashgar. We left no place unvisited. As we share our observations, you will join our journey through changing cultures, streets, and flavours. Yet, one constant remains: the majestic Tianshan Mountains, which greeted us in Urumqi and seemed to frame our entire trip.

Our first stop in Urumqi was the Xinjiang International Grand Bazaar. The vibrant atmosphere, traditional Uyghur cuisine, handicrafts, and cultural performances made us feel instantly at home. The Grand Bazaar was like a living, breathing fair. Above all, the language we heard felt remarkably familiar.

The Turkic languages, part of the Altai branch of the Ural-Altaic Language Family, are divided into six subgroups, one of which is the Uyghur group, widely spoken by the local population. We found it easy to communicate, even with one of our local organizers. This linguistic connection could be a significant advantage for Turkish visitors, whether for tourism or business.

A notable piece of good news greeted us upon our arrival: China Southern Airlines had just launched its first direct flight from Urumqi to Istanbul Airport. Meanwhile, we had arrived via a rather challenging route through Astana, with delays and cancellations. This direct flight marks an important milestone in the relations between the two countries.

The Strategic Importance of Xinjiang

Strategically positioned where Central Asia meets East Asia, Xinjiang is China's gateway to Western Asia. The region shares borders with eight countries and is endowed with vast reserves of coal, natural gas, oil, gold, copper, and uranium.

The oil reserves in Xinjiang are estimated to exceed 20 billion tons, natural gas reserves are around 10 trillion cubic meters, and coal reserves total approximately 2.2 trillion tons. A significant portion of the energy that powers China’s enormous economy either originates from or passes through this region.

But why is Xinjiang so crucial?

Xinjiang is a key junction for oil and natural gas pipelines, playing a vital role in China’s energy security. Pipelines carrying oil and natural gas from Kazakhstan to China are especially significant in sustaining the world’s largest manufacturing industry. Yet, the region's importance doesn't end there.

Xinjiang is also integral to the Belt and Road Initiative, with key land and rail connections for the project running through the area. This makes Xinjiang, and its capital Urumqi, a crucial hub for logistics and trade, not just for China but for global commerce. Central to this hub is the Xinjiang International Land Port, established in 2018.

China's Gateway to Europe

The Xinjiang International Land Port is pivotal to China's transition from its old growth model, characterized by rapid expansion and high energy consumption, to a more balanced and sustainable development strategy. This port is essential for transporting high-quality products to Europe via the China-Europe Express.

In 2023, the port saw record growth, handling 74.7 million tons in import and export volume. The Xinjiang region's foreign trade volume surged by 45.9%, exceeding $50 billion. This remarkable growth was driven in part by a 50% increase in trade with Central Asian countries such as Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan, and Uzbekistan. Over time, the number of countries and regions trading with Xinjiang has expanded to 192, further cementing the port's role in trade routes stretching from China's interior to Europe.

It's well understood that economic motives have often underpinned human conflicts throughout history, even before the rise of civilizations. Isn't that still true today? Slogans may obscure power struggles, but the reality remains unchanged. Xinjiang, therefore, must also be viewed through this lens. In short, Xinjiang sits at the heart of China's extended centre on the global chessboard.

"Nature Does Not Hurry..."

As I mentioned earlier, trying to understand this region through the internet without visiting it isn’t very effective. After a 10-day trip, I’ve come to realize this more clearly.

Here’s why:

China, with a population of 1.5 billion, is one of the two most populous countries in the world. Roughly one in every six people on Earth is Chinese. In China, nearly every global digital application has a domestic alternative and a significant portion of global digital monopolies are blocked. This creates a distinct divide between China and the Western-centric digital world, allowing China to protect its digital ecosystem while keeping Silicon Valley monopolies at bay. It’s a win-win for China, but it also makes it difficult for the rest of the world to truly explore, understand, and comprehend the country.

At this point, I asked my Chinese colleagues: Do you not need to advertise, or are you just not very successful at it? Their answer: Somewhere in between, but closer to the first option. Since the late 1970s, with the reforms led by Deng Xiaoping, China has steadily opened up and grown, always following long- and medium-term plans. Growth has consistently been paired with a calculated opening policy. As the Chinese philosopher Lao Tzu said: "Nature does not hurry, yet everything is accomplished."

While Chinese people may seem excited and hasty, the Chinese government exercises extreme patience.

To be continued...